This DIY wall-mounted lumber storage rack gets boards off a small garage floor using five 8 ft 2x4s. Three uprights lag-screw to the wall studs, and each one carries three 16-inch arms supported by 45-degree braces. That gives you three shelves of lumber storage that stick out only 16 in from the wall, and every joint is a simple screwed butt joint a beginner can handle.
If you're just getting set up, our list of essential woodworking tools for beginners covers everything this build needs. It's a good project to do early, because a tidy lumber rack keeps boards straight and makes every later build easier.
At a glance
- Finished size
- Each upright 47 in tall; arms project 16 in from the wall
- Storage
- 3 levels, uprights up to 32 in apart
- Skill
- Beginner
- Time
- 3–4 hours
- Lumber
- Five 2x4s, 8 ft
Beginner shortcut
Want a bigger rack with sheet-goods storage or a rolling scrap cart? The TedsWoodworking workshop plans cover lumber racks, carts and shop storage with full cut lists.
How the wall-mounted lumber rack works
Each of the three uprights is a 2x4 screwed flat against a wall stud. At three heights, an arm (a 2x4 on edge) sticks straight out, with a short 45° brace underneath it, forming a triangle. The brace pushes back against the upright, so the arm doesn't rely on screws alone. Boards rest across all three uprights, and a small stop block at the end of each arm keeps them from sliding off.
Use at least three uprights, no more than 32 in apart. On a 16 in stud layout that's every other stud; on a 24 in layout, use neighboring studs. 8 ft boards will then overhang the end uprights by roughly 14 to 24 in, which is fine. This plan is for wood-framed walls; for concrete or block walls, use anchors made for masonry and follow their instructions.
Materials list
- 5 × 2x4 boards, 8 ft (pick straight ones; see how to pick straight lumber)
- 12 × 1/4 × 4 in lag screws with washers (4 per upright)
- About 60 × 3 in wood or construction screws
- About 20 × 2-1/2 in wood screws for the stops
- Wood glue
- Bright paint or tape for the arm ends (optional)
Cut list
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Uprights | 3 | 2x4 | 47 in |
| B. Arms | 9 | 2x4 | 16 in |
| C. Braces | 9 | 2x4 | 10 in long edge, both ends 45° (short edge 3 in) |
| D. Stop blocks | 9 | 2x4 | 5-1/2 in |
Where the 47 in comes from
The arms are spaced 18 in apart, top to top, with the top arm flush with the top of the upright. A 10 in brace with 45° ends reaches about 7-1/16 in down the upright below the arm. So the lowest bracket ends at 36 + 3-1/2 (arm) + 7-1/16 = 46-9/16 in from the top, which a 47 in upright covers.
Cutting layout
| Board (96 in) | Parts | Arithmetic (each cut 1/8 in) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 uprights | 47 + 47 + 1/4 = 94-1/4 in |
| 2 | 1 upright, 1 arm, 2 braces | 47 + 16 + 10 + 10 + 1/2 = 83-1/2 in |
| 3 | 5 arms, 1 brace | 80 + 10 + 3/4 = 90-3/4 in |
| 4 | 3 arms, 4 braces | 48 + 40 + 7/8 = 88-7/8 in |
| 5 | 2 braces, 9 stop blocks | 20 + 49-1/2 + 1-3/8 = 70-7/8 in |
Totals: 3 uprights, 9 arms, 9 braces and 9 stops. Cut each brace from the long, rough length first, then make the 45° cuts.
Tools
- Miter saw (easiest for the 45° braces) or circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, and a socket or impact driver for the lag screws
- Stud finder, 4 ft level, tape measure, speed square
- Clamps and a helper for mounting
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut the parts
Cut the uprights, arms and stops to length. For each brace, cut one end at 45°, measure 10 in along the long edge, and cut the other end at 45° in the opposite direction so the piece is a trapezoid, 10 in on one edge and 3 in on the other. Sand the arm ends smooth.
Step 2: Mark the uprights
Lay the three uprights side by side, tops flush, and mark across all three at once at 0, 18 and 36 in from the top. These lines show the top of each arm. Marking them together keeps the arms level across the rack.
Step 3: Attach the arms
Stand an arm on edge on an upright's face, its top on the line and centered side to side. Glue the end. Drive two 3 in screws through the back of the upright into the end of the arm, countersunk so the back stays flat. Then toe-screw two more 3 in screws at an angle through the sides of the arm, near its back end, into the upright.
Step 4: Add the braces
Fit a brace under each arm with its long edge facing down and out, so it touches the arm and the upright on its 45° faces. Glue both ends. Drive two 3 in screws through the back of the upright into the brace, then toe-screw two 2-1/2 in screws through the sides of the brace into the underside of the arm. Predrill toe screws to avoid splitting.
Step 5: Add the stop blocks
Screw a stop block to the side of each arm at its front end, with its bottom flush with the bottom of the arm. It will stick up 2 in above the arm and keep boards from rolling off. Use two 2-1/2 in screws.
Shop storage
Organize the rest of your garage shop
Lumber carts, clamp racks, tool cabinets and benches: TedsWoodworking includes 16,000+ plans with materials lists, so you can plan your storage before you buy wood.
- Workshop storage and bench plans
- Cut lists and materials lists included
- Step-by-step diagrams for beginners
- One-time $67 with a 60-day money-back guarantee
Have questions first? Read our honest TedsWoodworking review.
Step 6: Find the studs and plan the height
Locate the studs with a stud finder and confirm each one with a small nail. Avoid the areas directly above and below outlets and switches, where wires run. Pick a spot where nobody walks under the arms, such as above the hood of a parked car or a bench. A top height of about 84 in (213 cm) puts the lowest arm around 48 in from the floor.
Step 7: Mount the uprights
With a helper, hold the first upright centered on its stud and plumb. The free zones on each upright, between the brackets, are about 11 to 18 in and 29 to 36 in from the top. Drill two pilot holes in each zone, about 3 in apart and centered on the stud, then drive the 1/4 × 4 in lag screws with washers until snug. Do not over-tighten. Mount the other uprights the same way, checking with a level and a straight board laid across the arms that all three are at the same height.
Step 8: Load it sensibly
Spread boards across all three uprights. Put the heaviest boards on the lowest level and close to the wall. Don't climb on the rack or hang anything from the arm ends. Check the lag screws every few months and snug them up if anything loosens. Paint the arm ends a bright color so they're easy to see.
Variations
- Longer boards: add a fourth upright (one more 2x4 for the upright plus parts from a sixth board).
- Taller rack: lengthen the uprights 18 in per extra level and add arms, braces and stops.
- Offcut bin: put a rolling bin under the rack for short pieces.
Pair this rack with our French cleat tool wall, and see our small woodworking shop layout for a one-car garage for where it fits best.
Plan your next shop upgrade
Search thousands of workshop plans inside TedsWoodworking, from lumber carts to tool cabinets. One payment, lifetime access, and a 60-day refund window.
One-time payment · Lifetime access · 60-day money-back guarantee
Save this for later
Pin this guide to your woodworking board on Pinterest so it is ready when you head to the shop.
FAQ
How much weight can a wall-mounted lumber rack hold?
We don't give a number, because it depends on your studs, your wall, your fasteners and how you build it. Keep loads moderate, put heavy boards low and close to the wall, and check the rack regularly.
Can I mount a lumber rack on drywall alone?
No. Every upright must be lag-screwed into a stud. Drywall anchors are not suitable for lumber storage.
Should I store lumber flat or on edge?
Flat, supported at least every 32 in, helps boards stay straight. Plywood sheets are better stored on edge against a wall.
