These simple 2x4 outdoor bench plans make a backless garden bench 47 inches long, about 14-3/4 inches deep and 18 inches tall (119 x 37 x 46 cm). It uses four 8 ft 2x4s, two sizes of exterior screws and some glue. Every cut is a straight crosscut, and the joints are plain screwed laps, so a first-time builder can finish it in an afternoon.
If this is one of your first builds, start with our guide on how to start woodworking with no experience. It covers the basic tools and habits this plan assumes. Then come back here with four straight boards.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 47 in long x 14-3/4 in deep x 18 in tall
- Skill
- Beginner
- Time
- 3-4 hours plus finish
- Lumber
- Four 8 ft 2x4s
- Joinery
- Glue and exterior screws
Beginner shortcut
Want a matching table or planter for the same patio? The TedsWoodworking outdoor plans include benches, tables and garden projects with cut lists, so you can build a set that looks like it belongs together.
How this 2x4 bench is built
The bench has two leg frames and a slatted seat. Each leg frame is two legs joined by a top rail and a lower stretcher. The rails are screwed face-to-face onto the legs, which gives a lot of glue and screw area. A center stretcher ties the two frames together, and four seat boards sit on top with small gaps so rain can drain.
The seat is 18 inches off the ground, a normal sitting height. The legs are 16-1/2 inches long because the 1-1/2 in seat boards sit on top of them (16-1/2 + 1-1/2 = 18).
Materials list
- 4 x 2x4 boards, 8 ft (pressure-treated, cedar or another outdoor-rated choice)
- About 20 x 3 in exterior screws (coated deck screws)
- About 16 x 2-1/2 in exterior screws
- Exterior wood glue
- 80 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Exterior stain, paint or a penetrating outdoor finish
Not sure which lumber to buy? Our guide to the best wood for beginner projects explains the trade-offs between pine, cedar and treated lumber. Pick the straightest boards in the pile; how to pick straight lumber shows what to look for.
Cut list
All parts are 2x4 (actual size 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in).
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Seat boards | 4 | 2x4 | 47 in |
| B. Legs | 4 | 2x4 | 16-1/2 in |
| C. Top rails | 2 | 2x4 | 14 in |
| D. Lower stretchers | 2 | 2x4 | 14 in |
| E. Center stretcher | 1 | 2x4 | 34 in |
Cutting layout
Each cut removes about 1/8 in, so we allow for that on every board.
- Board 1: two seat boards A (47 + 47 = 94 in, plus kerf = about 94-1/4 in)
- Board 2: two seat boards A (same, 94-1/4 in)
- Board 3: four legs B and one top rail C (16-1/2 x 4 + 14 = 80 in, plus kerf = about 80-5/8 in)
- Board 4: one top rail C, two lower stretchers D and the center stretcher E (14 + 14 + 14 + 34 = 76 in, plus kerf = about 76-1/2 in)
Boards 1 and 2 leave about 1-3/4 in, enough to square up one factory end first. Boards 3 and 4 leave offcuts you can use as test pieces.
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square as a guide
- Drill/driver with a countersink pilot bit
- Tape measure, pencil and square
- Two or more clamps
- Sander or a sanding block
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut and sand the parts
Square one end of each board, then cut the parts in the order of the layout above. Label them with a pencil. Sand the faces and ease every sharp edge with 120 grit. If you use pressure-treated lumber, wear a dust mask, cut outdoors, and wash your hands before eating.
Step 2: Build the two leg frames
Lay two legs (B) flat and parallel on a flat surface. Lay a top rail (C) across them so its top edge is flush with the leg tops and its ends are flush with the outer edges of the legs. The frame is now 14 inches wide. Spread glue, clamp, and drive two 2-1/2 in screws through the rail into each leg.
Next, mark each leg 4 inches up from the bottom. Place a lower stretcher (D) across the legs with its bottom edge on those marks, on the same face as the top rail. Glue and screw it the same way. Check the frame is square by measuring the diagonals; they should match. Build the second frame the same way.
Step 3: Join the frames with the center stretcher
Stand both frames up with the rails facing each other on the inside. Lay the center stretcher (E) flat on top of the two lower stretchers, centered side to side. Its ends should be flush with the outside faces of the lower stretchers. Drill pilot holes and drive two 3 in screws down through each end of E into the stretcher below.
The base is now 34 inches between the outside faces of the rails, or 37 inches across the outside of the legs.
Step 4: Attach the seat boards
Set the base on a flat floor. Place the four seat boards (A) on top, with 1/4 in gaps between them (a carpenter's pencil or two stacked paint stirrers make good spacers). The seat is 14-3/4 in deep, so it overhangs the 14 in frame by 3/8 in front and back. Slide the base so each leg frame sits 5 inches in from the ends of the seat.
Drill pilot holes near the board ends to prevent splitting. Drive two 3 in screws through each seat board into each top rail. That is 16 screws for the seat.
Step 5: Finish and check for wobble
Sand the seat edges again so nobody snags clothing. Set the bench on a flat surface; if it rocks, sand or plane the long leg a little at a time. Apply an exterior finish to every surface, including the leg bottoms, which soak up water from wet ground.
Outdoor builds
Plans for the rest of your patio
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Tips for a bench that lasts outdoors
- Keep the legs dry. Set the bench on pavers or gravel rather than bare soil, or add plastic furniture glides to the leg bottoms.
- Use exterior fasteners only. Plain interior screws rust and stain the wood. With treated lumber, use screws the box says are rated for it.
- Refresh the finish. Check the seat every spring and recoat when water stops beading.
- Wet treated lumber shrinks. If your boards are damp from the store, the 1/4 in seat gaps may open a little as they dry. That is normal.
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Shorter entry bench | Cut the seat boards to 36 in and the center stretcher to 23 in (11 in shorter, same as the seat) |
| Longer bench | Use 10 ft boards for a longer seat and add a third leg frame in the middle |
| Wider seat | Use five seat boards and make the rails and stretchers 17-3/4 in |
| Painted farmhouse look | Paint the legs and stain the seat a contrasting color |
Like this kind of build? Our raised garden bed plans with legs and fence picket planter box use the same simple screw joinery for the garden.
Your next outdoor weekend project
Search TedsWoodworking for benches with backs, Adirondack chairs and garden storage when you are ready for a bigger build.
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FAQ
How many 2x4s do I need for a simple outdoor bench?
This 47 in bench uses four 8 ft 2x4s. The cutting layout above shows exactly which parts come from each board.
What is the best wood for a 2x4 outdoor bench?
Pressure-treated pine and cedar both hold up outdoors. Treated lumber is cheaper; cedar is lighter and nicer to sit on. Either way, finish it and keep the legs off wet soil.
Can I build this bench without a miter saw?
Yes. A circular saw guided by a speed square handles every cut, because they are all straight 90-degree crosscuts.
How do I stop the bench from wobbling?
Check that each leg frame is square before the glue sets, and make sure the floor is flat. Any small rock can be fixed by sanding a little off the long leg.
