These simple 2x4 table plans build a sturdy dining or work table 72 in long, 33 in wide and 30 in tall (183 x 84 x 76 cm) from six 2x4s and six 2x6s. The base is screwed together with plain butt joints and pocket screws, every cut is a square crosscut, and the formulas below let you resize it for a small kitchen, a desk or a workshop.
If you are just getting started, read our guide on how to start woodworking with no experience first. This table is a natural next step after a first 2x4 project, because it uses the same lumber with a little more care for square and flat.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 72 in long x 33 in wide x 30 in tall
- Seats
- 6 (three per side)
- Skill
- Beginner
- Time
- 1-2 days plus finish
- Lumber
- Six 2x4s and six 2x6s (8 ft)
Beginner shortcut
Want matching benches, a farmhouse X-base or a trestle version later? The TedsWoodworking furniture plans include tables, benches and chairs with cut lists, so you can build a full dining set step by step.
How the table is built
- Legs are two 2x4s glued face to face, which makes a solid 3 x 3-1/2 in leg that will not wobble.
- Aprons wrap around the outside of the legs: two long aprons run the full length of the base, and two short aprons fit between them at the ends. Each leg sits in an inside corner and is screwed from two directions.
- A center support across the middle holds the top flat.
- An H-shaped lower stretcher (one stretcher between each pair of end legs and one long stretcher down the middle) stops racking and gives a footrest.
- The top is six 2x6s, attached from underneath with pocket screws so no screw heads show.
The top overhangs the base by 5 in at each end and 2-1/2 in along each side. That leaves room for knees at the ends and keeps the legs out of the way of chairs.
Materials list
- 6 x 2x4 boards, 8 ft (straight and dry)
- 6 x 2x6 boards, 8 ft (for the top; pick the flattest, clearest boards in the pile)
- About 30 x 3 in wood screws
- About 16 x 2-1/2 in wood screws (for the legs)
- About 45 x 2-1/2 in coarse-thread pocket screws
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper: 80, 120 and 180 grit
- Stain or paint, plus a durable clear finish such as polyurethane
Why this matters: construction lumber is often wet when you buy it, and wet boards shrink and twist as they dry. Bring the boards indoors and stack them flat with spacers for a week or two before you cut. Our guide on how to pick straight lumber shows what to look for at the store.
Cut list
Actual sizes: 2x4 = 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in; 2x6 = 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 in.
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Top boards | 6 | 2x6 | 72 in |
| B. Leg halves (glued in pairs) | 8 | 2x4 | 28-1/2 in |
| C. Long aprons | 2 | 2x4 | 62 in |
| D. Short aprons | 2 | 2x4 | 25 in |
| E. Center support | 1 | 2x4 | 25 in |
| F. Lower end stretchers | 2 | 2x4 | 18 in |
| G. Lower center stretcher | 1 | 2x4 | 53 in |
Cutting layout
Each cut removes about 1/8 in.
- 2x4 #1 and #2: one C and one B each (62 + 28-1/2 = 90-1/2 in, plus kerf = 90-3/4 in)
- 2x4 #3 and #4: three B each (28-1/2 x 3 = 85-1/2 in, plus kerf = 85-7/8 in)
- 2x4 #5: D, D, E and one F (25 + 25 + 25 + 18 = 93 in, plus kerf = 93-1/2 in)
- 2x4 #6: G and one F (53 + 18 = 71 in, plus kerf = 71-1/4 in)
- 2x6 #1 to #6: one A each (72 in, leaving about 23-7/8 in for a matching bench or shelf)
How the numbers fit together
- Height: 28-1/2 in legs + 1-1/2 in top = 30 in.
- Base length: 72 in top - 5 in - 5 in overhang = 62 in, the long apron length.
- Top width: 6 boards x 5-1/2 in = 33 in. Base width: 33 - 2-1/2 - 2-1/2 = 28 in.
- Short aprons and center support: 28 in - two long aprons (3 in) = 25 in.
- End stretchers: they fit between the legs: 25 in - two legs (7 in) = 18 in.
- Center stretcher: 62 in - two short aprons (3 in) - two legs (6 in) = 53 in.
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver and a pocket hole jig
- Four or more clamps, including two long ones
- Tape measure, square, pencil
- Random orbit sander
- Safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask
New to pocket screws? Our pocket hole joinery guide explains the jig settings for 1-1/2 in thick lumber.
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut and sand the parts
Square one end of each board, cut the parts in the order of the layout, and label them. Sand the faces with 80 and 120 grit now, while the parts are easy to handle; it is much harder once the base is together.
Step 2: Glue up the legs
Spread glue on the face of one leg half (B), lay a second one on top with the ends flush, and clamp every 6 in. Drive four 2-1/2 in screws from the face that will sit toward the inside of the table. Make four legs, each 3 x 3-1/2 x 28-1/2 in. Scrape off squeeze-out before it hardens.
Step 3: Drill the pocket holes
Drill pocket holes, angled up toward the top edge, on the inside face of the long aprons (C) every 10-12 in, and on the short aprons (D) and center support (E) one under each top board, so six per piece. These will hold the top. Drill two pocket holes in each end of both end stretchers (F) and the center stretcher (G).
Step 4: Build the two end frames
Stand two legs up with their 3-1/2 in faces pointing toward the end of the table. Place a short apron (D) across those outer faces, ends flush with the legs' outside edges and top flush with the leg tops. Glue and drive two 3 in screws into each leg. The frame is 25 in wide, with 18 in between the legs.
Fit an end stretcher (F) between the legs with its bottom 6 in above the floor and its inside face flush with the inside face of the legs. Glue and drive the pocket screws. Check the frame is square. Build the second end frame the same way.
Step 5: Add the long aprons
Stand both end frames up. Clamp a long apron (C) across the outside of the legs on one side, ends flush with the outer faces of the short aprons and top flush with the leg tops. Glue and drive two 3 in screws into each leg and one into the end of each short apron. Repeat on the other side. Measure the diagonals across the top of the base; both should be about 68 in. Rack the base gently until they match.
Step 6: Add the center support and stretcher
Fit the center support (E) between the long aprons centered 31 in from either end, top flush, and fix it with 3 in screws through the aprons. Fit the center stretcher (G) between the two end stretchers, centered, on edge, and drive its pocket screws into the end stretchers.
Step 7: Attach the top
Lay the six top boards (A) face down on a flat floor, best sides down, alternating the growth-ring direction on the ends if you can. Push them tight and line up the ends. Set the base upside down on them, centered: 5 in from each end and 2-1/2 in from each side. Drive 2-1/2 in pocket screws through the aprons and center support into the top boards, making sure there is at least one screw into every top board at each end apron and the center support.
Step 8: Flatten, sand and finish
Flip the table over. Sand any uneven seams level with 80 grit, then 120 and 180. Soften every edge. Stain or paint if you like, then apply at least three coats of a durable clear finish on the top, sanding lightly between coats. If you stain pine, use a pre-stain conditioner; our guide to staining pine without blotching explains why.
Furniture plans
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Read our honest TedsWoodworking review before you decide.
How to resize this table for any room
Decide the top size first, then work out every other part from it. These formulas assume a 5 in end overhang, a 2-1/2 in side overhang and the same 3 x 3-1/2 in doubled legs.
| Part | Formula |
|---|---|
| Top width | Number of 2x6s x 5-1/2 in |
| Long aprons | Top length - 10 in |
| Base width | Top width - 5 in |
| Short aprons and center support | Base width - 3 in |
| End stretchers | Base width - 10 in |
| Center stretcher | Long apron - 9 in |
| Legs | Finished height - 1-1/2 in |
Worked examples
| Table | Top | Long aprons | Short aprons | End / center stretchers | Legs |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small kitchen table | 48 x 27-1/2 in (5 boards) | 38 in | 19-1/2 in | 12-1/2 / 29 in | 28-1/2 in |
| Desk | 54 x 27-1/2 in (5 boards) | 44 in | 19-1/2 in | 12-1/2 / 35 in | 28-1/2 in |
| Workshop table, 36 in tall | 60 x 33 in (6 boards) | 50 in | 25 in | 18 / 41 in | 34-1/2 in |
| Long dining table | 94 x 38-1/2 in (7 boards) | 84 in | 30-1/2 in | 23-1/2 / 75 in | 28-1/2 in |
Keep dining tables and desks at 29-30 in tall and counter or workbench height at 34-36 in. Allow about 24 in of table length per seated person. For tops longer than about 72 in, add a second center support so there is one about every 30 in. The 94 in top still comes from 8 ft boards, but trim carefully: there is under 2 in to spare.
Common mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Table rocks | Legs cut to slightly different lengths, or uneven floor | Gang-cut legs with a stop block; add felt or adjustable glides |
| Base out of square | Diagonals not checked before the glue set | Measure diagonals at Step 5 and clamp across the long one |
| Gaps open in the top | Wet lumber shrinking | Acclimate boards for 1-2 weeks before building |
| Uneven seams on the top | Boards cupped or not pressed flat | Choose flat boards, assemble upside down on a flat floor, sand seams level |
| Knees hit the apron | Legs too short or apron too wide | Keep at least 24 in from the floor to the bottom of the apron |
Variations
- Smoother top: rip the rounded edges off each 2x6 on a table saw before assembly for tight seams. Each board loses about 1/4 in, so recalculate the top width.
- Lower shelf: replace the center stretcher with two side stretchers and lay 1x4 slats across them for a shelf.
- Two-tone finish: paint the base and stain the top.
- Breadboard look: fix a 2x4 across each end of the top with pocket screws from underneath for a farmhouse style; shorten the top boards by 7 in (two 3-1/2 in widths) to keep the same length.
Want smaller furniture first? Try our coffee table with a shelf, or the coffee table with storage for the living room.
Make it a full dining set
When the table is done, look inside TedsWoodworking for benches, chairs and sideboards with cut lists sized to match.
Find matching furniture plans →
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FAQ
How many 2x4s do I need to build a table?
This 72 x 33 in table uses six 8 ft 2x4s for the base and six 8 ft 2x6s for the top. Smaller tables need fewer; use the resize formulas to work out your own list.
Is a 2x4 table strong enough for daily dining?
Yes. Doubled 2x4 legs, aprons screwed from two directions and an H-stretcher make a very solid table. The key is a square base and dry lumber.
What height should a dining table be?
About 29-30 in to the top, which leaves about 24-25 in of knee room under a 3-1/2 in apron. Work tables and counters are usually 34-36 in.
Can I build this table without a pocket hole jig?
Yes. Attach the top with screws through the top into the aprons and plug or fill the holes, and screw the end stretchers in from the outside of the legs with 5 in structural screws.
