These outdoor storage bench plans build a deck box you can sit on: 47-1/2 inches long, 22 inches deep and 18 inches tall (121 x 56 x 46 cm), with a hinged lid and gaps in the floor so water drains out. The walls are cedar fence pickets on a 2x2 frame, and the seat is made from deck boards. It holds cushions, garden tools or pool toys and seats two adults.
New to building? Our guide on how to start woodworking with no experience covers the basic tools and habits this plan assumes. This is a good winter garage project: build it now and it is finished and dry, ready to hold the patio cushions when spring comes.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 47-1/2 in long x 22 in deep x 18 in tall
- Seat height
- 18 in
- Storage space
- about 44 x 19 x 13 in
- Skill
- Beginner, straight cuts only
- Lumber
- Fence pickets, 2x2s, one 2x4, two deck boards
Beginner shortcut
Want a bigger deck box, a bench with a back and storage, or a matching potting bench? The TedsWoodworking outdoor plans include plenty of garden storage projects with cut lists and diagrams.
How this storage bench is built
The box is four walls of horizontal fence pickets, three rows high, screwed to four 2x2 corner posts. A 2x2 top rail and a 2x2 floor cleat run along the inside of the front and back walls. The top rails stiffen the walls and give the lid something solid to sit on. The floor cleats hold seven picket floor slats with gaps between them.
The corner posts are 1/2 in longer than the walls are tall, so the pickets stay 1/2 in off the ground. That small gap matters. Why: wood that sits in a puddle soaks water up its end grain and rots from the bottom first, even cedar.
The lid is four deck boards screwed to four 2x4 battens underneath. The battens hang just inside the top rails, which keeps the lid centered and stops it sliding off. Two outdoor T-hinges join the lid to the back wall.
Materials list
- 10 x cedar fence pickets, about 5/8 x 5-1/2 x 72 in (check yours; 9 are used, 1 is a spare)
- 3 x 2x2 boards, 8 ft (actual size 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in)
- 1 x 2x4 board, 8 ft (actual size 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in)
- 2 x 5/4x6 deck boards, 8 ft (about 1 x 5-1/2 in; check yours)
- 2 x outdoor T-hinges or strap hinges, about 6 in, galvanized or stainless
- 1 x lid stay (a lid support hinge) or a short chain
- About 120 x 1-1/2 in exterior screws
- About 40 x 2 in exterior screws
- Exterior wood glue (optional)
- 120 grit sandpaper; exterior stain or oil
Cedar pickets are light, rot resistant and cheap for what they are. For the frame, cedar or pressure-treated 2x2s both work; use screws rated for treated lumber if you choose that. Our fence picket planter box uses the same pickets, so the two make a good pair on a patio.
Check your pickets before you cut. Picket widths vary a little. This plan assumes 5-1/2 in, which makes the walls 16-1/2 in tall (three rows). If yours are a different width, make the posts three picket widths plus 1/2 in.
Cut list
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Front and back wall pickets | 6 | Picket | 46 in |
| B. End wall pickets | 6 | Picket | 19-3/4 in |
| C. Floor slats | 7 | Picket | 19-5/8 in |
| D. Corner posts | 4 | 2x2 | 17 in |
| E. Top rails | 2 | 2x2 | 41-3/4 in |
| F. Floor cleats | 2 | 2x2 | 41-3/4 in |
| G. Middle wall cleats | 2 | 2x4 | 12-3/4 in |
| H. Lid battens | 4 | 2x4 | 16-1/4 in |
| I. Lid boards | 4 | 5/4x6 deck board | 47-1/2 in |
How the dimensions add up
- Length: the front and back pickets run the full 46 in. The posts sit inside them, 5/8 in in from each end, leaving room for the end pickets. Between the posts: 46 - 5/8 - 1-1/2 - 1-1/2 - 5/8 = 41-3/4 in, the length of the rails and cleats.
- Depth: the end pickets fit between the front and back pickets, so 21 - 5/8 - 5/8 = 19-3/4 in. The floor slats are 1/8 in shorter (19-5/8 in) so they drop in easily.
- Height: 1/2 in gap + three 5-1/2 in rows = 17 in to the top of the walls, the post length. The 1 in lid makes the seat 18 in.
- Floor: seven 5-1/2 in slats = 38-1/2 in, which leaves 3-1/4 in of the 41-3/4 in space for six gaps, a little over 1/2 in each.
- Lid: four 5-1/2 in deck boards = 22 in deep, flush at the back and 1 in over the front. At 47-1/2 in long, it overhangs each end by 3/4 in.
Cutting layout
Each cut takes about 1/8 in, included below. If your pickets have a dog-eared (clipped) end, cut that off first; the spare length allows for it.
- Pickets 1 to 6: one A and one B each (46 + 19-3/4 + two cuts = 66 in of 72).
- Pickets 7, 8 and 9: three floor slats each (19-5/8 x 3 + three cuts = 59-1/4 in). That makes nine; you need seven, so two are spares.
- 2x2 board 1: both top rails (41-3/4 x 2 + two cuts = 83-3/4 in of 96).
- 2x2 board 2: both floor cleats (83-3/4 in).
- 2x2 board 3: four corner posts (17 x 4 + four cuts = 68-1/2 in).
- 2x4: four lid battens and two middle cleats (65 + 25-1/2 + six cuts = 91-1/4 in of 96).
- Deck boards: two lid boards from each (47-1/2 x 2 + two cuts = 95-1/4 in of 96).
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver with a countersink pilot bit
- Tape measure, pencil, square, clamps
- A few 1/2 in spacers (scrap plywood) for the floor gaps
- Sander, safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask
Thin pickets split easily, so drill a pilot hole for every screw within 1 in of an end. Our guide to measuring and marking wood accurately helps keep a box like this square.
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut and sand
Cut all the parts and label them. Sand the rough faces of the pickets that will face out and every edge of the lid boards, which people sit on.
Step 2: Build the front and back walls
Lay two corner posts (D) on a flat surface, parallel. Lay three 46 in pickets (A) across them, edge to edge, with the rough side up if you want a rustic look. Position the posts 5/8 in in from each end of the pickets (a scrap of picket makes a perfect gauge). The tops of the posts are flush with the top edge of the top picket; the bottoms stick out 1/2 in past the bottom picket. Drive two 1-1/2 in screws through each picket into each post.
Flip the wall over. Fit a top rail (E) between the posts, flush with the top, and a floor cleat (F) between the posts, flush with the bottom edge of the bottom picket. Screw through the pickets into both, about every 8 in. Add a middle cleat (G) flat against the pickets at the center, butted up under the top rail, and screw through the pickets into it. It ties all three rows together. Its bottom stops just above where the floor slats will sit.
Build the second wall the same way.
Step 3: Add the end walls
Stand the front and back walls up, rails facing in. Fit three 19-3/4 in end pickets (B) between them at each end, against the end faces of the posts. Keep the bottom picket 1/2 in above the floor line, the same as the front. Drive two 1-1/2 in screws through each picket into each post.
The box should measure 46 x 21 in outside. Measure the diagonals across the top; if they differ, push the long corner until they match. Why this matters: if the box is out of square, the lid will not sit evenly and the hinges will bind.
Step 4: Fit the floor slats
Drop the floor slats (C) onto the floor cleats, starting with one tight against the posts at each end. Space the rest evenly with your 1/2 in spacers, adjusting slightly so the gaps match. Screw each slat to both cleats with one 1-1/2 in screw at each end. The gaps let water and dirt fall through and air move. There is also a narrow slot between the corner posts at each end; that is extra drainage, not a mistake.
Garden storage
Storage ideas for the rest of the yard
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Step 5: Build the lid
Lay the four deck boards (I) face down on a flat surface, edges butted together, ends lined up. The lid is 22 in deep. Mark one long edge as the back.
Place the four battens (H) across the boards. Each one starts 2-3/8 in from the back edge and runs 16-1/4 in toward the front. Put the two end battens 3-1/8 in in from the lid ends, and space the two middle ones evenly between them, about 13-1/4 in apart center to center. Those positions keep each batten 1/4 in clear of the top rails and corner posts. Drive two 2 in screws through each batten into each lid board.
Test the fit: set the lid on the box, back edges flush. It should drop in easily with the battens just inside the rails and the front overhanging by 1 in.
Step 6: Hinge the lid
With the lid in place and its back edge flush with the back wall, fit two T-hinges about 8 in in from each end. The long strap goes on top of the lid, and the T leaf goes on the back wall so its screws pass through the top picket into the top rail behind it. Fit a lid stay or chain inside so the lid cannot swing back past upright and strain the hinges.
Safety: do not fit a latch or lock that closes by itself, and keep children from playing inside the box. A lid stay that holds the lid open is a good habit.
Step 7: Finish
Sand any sharp corners on the lid, then apply an exterior stain or oil to every surface, including the inside, the floor slats and the bottom of the posts. Let it cure fully, with the lid propped open, before you store cushions inside.
Common mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Lid rocks or sits crooked | Box out of square, or a twisted deck board | Check diagonals before the floor goes in; pick straight boards |
| Lid will not drop in | Battens too close to the edges | Move them so there is 1/4 in clearance inside the rails |
| Split pickets | No pilot holes near the ends | Pilot every screw within 1 in of an end |
| Water pools inside | Box on soil or a flat, wet deck | Set it on pavers or blocks and keep the floor gaps clear |
| Cushions mildew | Stored damp, no airflow | Dry cushions before storing; prop the lid open on sunny days |
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Bigger deck box | Add a fourth row of pickets and make the posts 5-1/2 in longer. It becomes too tall to sit on comfortably, so treat it as storage only. |
| Seat with a back | Pair it with our outdoor bench with a back and use the box as a side table. |
| Cushion top | Add an outdoor seat cushion, 22 x 47 in, and store it inside when it rains. |
| Painted box | Use exterior paint on the walls and a clear oil on the lid, which gets more wear. |
Looking after it
- Keep it under the eaves or a cover if you can; the lid is not fully watertight.
- Recoat the lid each spring and the walls every year or two.
- Check the hinge screws once a season; a heavy lid loosens them over time.
Plan the rest of your patio
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FAQ
Can you sit on a fence picket storage bench?
Yes, as long as the seat is made from thicker boards. This plan uses 5/4 deck boards on 2x4 battens for the lid, which rests on 2x2 top rails, and it seats two adults.
Will a wooden deck box keep things dry?
It keeps off most rain, but it is not waterproof. Store cushions dry, put the box on pavers, and keep it under cover in heavy weather.
How many fence pickets do I need?
Nine for this box, plus one spare in case of a split or a badly warped picket.
Why are there gaps in the floor?
So any water that gets in drains straight out and air can move. A solid floor holds water and rots.
