These simple floating shelf plans make a 37-1/2 in long, 8 in deep, 3-1/2 in thick shelf (95 x 20 x 9 cm) with no visible brackets. A hidden 2x2 cleat frame is screwed into the wall studs, and a hollow box made from a 1x8 and a 1x4 slides over it. All cuts are straight crosscuts, and you need one board of each size.
If you are brand new, start with how to start woodworking with no experience, then come back with a drill, a saw and a stud finder.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 37-1/2 in long x 8 in deep x 3-1/2 in thick
- Skill
- Beginner (careful measuring)
- Time
- 3-4 hours plus finish
- Lumber
- One 1x8 (8 ft), one 1x4 (6 ft), one 2x2 (6 ft)
- Mounting
- Into at least two wall studs
Beginner shortcut
Planning shelves for a whole room? The TedsWoodworking shelf and bookcase plans include wall shelves, ladder shelves and built-ins with cut lists, so you can mix styles that fit your space.
How a hidden-cleat floating shelf works
The shelf has two parts. The cleat is a 2x2 backer screwed flat to the wall with short 2x2 arms sticking out like a comb. The shell is a hollow box: a top, a bottom, two end caps and a front. The shell slides over the arms, and the top rests directly on them, so the arms carry the load and the wood box just hides them.
The key numbers: a 1x4 front is 3-1/2 in tall and covers the 3/4 in top and bottom, so the hollow inside is 3-1/2 - 3/4 - 3/4 = 2 in tall. The 2x2 arms are 1-1/2 in, so they fit with room to spare. Inside, the box is 7-1/4 in deep (the 1x8 width), and the cleat reaches 1-1/2 + 5-1/2 = 7 in from the wall, leaving 1/4 in clearance at the front.
Materials list
- 1 x 1x8 board, 8 ft (pine or poplar; choose a flat one)
- 1 x 1x4 board, 6 ft
- 1 x 2x2 board, 6 ft (pick the straightest one you can find)
- Structural wood screws, 3-1/2 to 4 in long, two per stud
- About 10 x 2-1/2 in pocket hole screws
- About 6 x 1-1/4 in wood screws
- 1-1/4 in finish nails or brads, and wood glue
- Wood filler, 120 and 180 grit sandpaper, and a finish
Cut list
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Shell top | 1 | 1x8 | 36 in |
| B. Shell bottom | 1 | 1x8 | 36 in |
| C. End caps | 2 | 1x4 | 7-1/4 in |
| D. Front | 1 | 1x4 | 37-1/2 in |
| E. Cleat backer | 1 | 2x2 | 34 in |
| F. Cleat arms | 5 | 2x2 | 5-1/2 in |
Cutting layout
- 1x8: top and bottom (36 + 36 = 72 in, plus kerf = about 72-1/4 in). About 23 in left over.
- 1x4: front and both end caps (37-1/2 + 7-1/4 + 7-1/4 = 52 in, plus kerf = about 52-3/8 in from a 72 in board)
- 2x2: backer and five arms (34 + 5-1/2 x 5 = 61-1/2 in, plus kerf = about 62-1/4 in from a 72 in board)
The end caps go on the outside of the top and bottom, so the box is 36 + 3/4 + 3/4 = 37-1/2 in long, exactly the length of the front. The backer is 2 in shorter than the inside of the box, which gives 1 in of wiggle room at each end.
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver and a pocket hole jig
- Stud finder (one that also warns of live wires is best)
- 4 ft level, tape measure, square and pencil
- Clamps, hammer and nail set
- Safety glasses
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Find and mark the studs
Do this first; it decides where the arms go. Choose the height, then use the stud finder to locate at least two studs inside the shelf's width and mark their centers. Avoid the area directly above or below outlets and switches, where wires usually run. Draw a level line where the top of the cleat will sit.
Step 2: Cut and sand
Cut all parts. Sand the shell parts to 120 grit, and pick the best face of the 1x8 for the top.
Step 3: Build the shell
Lay the top (A) best face down on a flat bench. Stand an end cap (C) against each end, also resting on the bench, with front and back edges flush. Glue and nail through each cap into the end of the top with two nails.
Flip the assembly over so it stands on the free edges of the caps. Slide the bottom (B) flat on the bench between the caps. It is now flush with the cap edges, and the 2 in gap inside is set automatically. Glue and nail the caps to it.
Finally, glue the front (D) over the front edges of the top, bottom and caps, with all edges flush, and nail it every 6 in. Set the nails, fill the holes, and sand to 180 grit.
Step 4: Build the cleat
Hold the backer (E) against the wall on your line and transfer the stud marks to it. Plan five arms (F): one within 2 in of each end, and the rest spread out so none sits on a stud mark (keep them at least 1 in away). Drill two pocket holes on the bottom face of each arm at one end. Glue and screw each arm square to the front face of the backer, flush with its top.
Wall storage
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Step 5: Mount the cleat into the studs
Hold the cleat on your level line with the arms pointing out. Drill a pilot hole through the backer at each stud mark, then drive two structural screws per stud, one high and one low. Check the arms with the level as you go. If the arms droop, the shelf will too, so shim behind the backer if the wall is uneven.
Step 6: Slide on the shell and secure it
Finish the shell first and let it dry. Slide it over the arms until the back edges touch the wall. The top rests on the arms. Drive a 1-1/4 in screw down through the top into each arm, countersink the heads, then fill and touch up. The shell can no longer slide off.
What to put on it (be conservative)
The real strength comes from the studs and the screws, not the wood box. Use this shelf for photos, plants, decor and a few paperbacks. Do not use it for heavy book collections, a TV, or as a step or seat. If you need serious storage, a floor-standing piece like our easy bookshelf plans for beginners is a better choice.
Never mount it with drywall anchors alone. For plaster, tile or masonry walls, use fasteners made for that wall and follow their instructions.
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Shorter shelf | Cut A, B, D and E shorter by the same amount; keep it long enough to reach two studs |
| Set of two | Buy double the lumber and stack them 12-14 in apart |
| Painted to match the wall | Paint the shell the wall color for a minimal look |
Want to understand the joinery better? See pocket hole joinery for beginners and wood joints for beginners.
Design the rest of the wall
Browse TedsWoodworking for wall cubbies, picture ledges and bookcases that pair with this shelf.
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FAQ
Do floating shelves have to go into studs?
For this design, yes. The cleat should be screwed into at least two studs. Drywall anchors alone are not a safe choice for a shelf that sticks out from the wall.
Why is the inside of the box bigger than the arms?
The extra space lets the shell slide on easily. The top rests on the arms and is screwed to them, so the gap under the arms does not matter.
Can I make the shelf deeper?
Deeper shelves put more leverage on the screws. Keep this design at 8 in deep, and look for a plan with heavier hardware if you need more.
Can I use a 2x4 for the cleat?
Not in this box. A 2x4 is 3-1/2 in, too big for the 2 in hollow. You would need a thicker shell.
