These outdoor bench plans with back make a comfortable 2x4 garden bench, 51 inches wide, about 26 inches deep and 33 inches tall (130 x 66 x 84 cm), with an 18-1/2 in deep seat at 17-1/2 in high. The back leans at a fixed 15 degrees. You need seven 8 ft 2x4s, four carriage bolts and exterior screws, and only two pieces have angled ends.
If you are still putting your tool kit together, our list of essential woodworking tools for beginners covers everything this plan uses. A bench like this is a good winter build: make it in the garage over a couple of cold weekends, finish it, and it is ready to go in the garden when spring arrives.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 51 in wide x 26 in deep x 33 in tall
- Seat
- 17-1/2 in high, 18-1/2 in deep
- Back angle
- 15 degrees from vertical
- Lumber
- Seven 8 ft 2x4s
- Time
- 1 day plus finish
Beginner shortcut
Want curved arms, a wider seat or a matching table for the garden? The TedsWoodworking outdoor furniture plans include benches, chairs and garden sets with cut lists, so you can build a whole matching set.
Why a back makes a big difference
A backless bench is fine for a quick sit, but after ten minutes most people want something to lean on. The comfort comes from three numbers: seat height, seat depth and back angle. This bench uses a 17-1/2 in seat height (standard for chairs and benches), an 18-1/2 in seat depth, and a back that leans 15 degrees from vertical, which puts the seat-to-back angle at about 105 degrees.
Why this matters: a bolt-upright back (90 degrees) feels like a church pew, and a very reclined back makes it hard to get up. Around 100 to 110 degrees is relaxed but easy to stand from, which suits most adults.
How this garden bench is built
Each side is a simple frame: a front leg and a rear leg, both 16 in tall and standing straight up, joined by a seat rail at the top and a lower rail near the floor. The rails are screwed to the inside faces of the legs.
The back is carried by two back supports, one per side. Each support is a 30 in 2x4 with both ends cut at 15 degrees. It is bolted to the outside face of the rear leg, leaning backward, with its bottom end 4 in above the floor. Three back slats screw to the front edges of the supports.
Why not just make the back support the rear leg? Because a leaning leg puts its foot forward, under the seat, and the bench can tip backward when someone leans hard. Here the rear legs stay vertical, at the very back of the seat, so the bench stays planted.
Materials list
- 7 x 2x4 boards, 8 ft (actual size 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in). Cedar or pressure-treated lumber.
- 2 x 3/8 in carriage bolts, 5 in long, with washers and nuts
- 2 x 3/8 in carriage bolts, 3-1/2 in long, with washers and nuts
- About 40 x 3 in exterior screws
- About 20 x 2-1/2 in exterior screws
- Exterior wood glue
- 80 and 120 grit sandpaper; exterior stain, paint or oil
Use hot-dip galvanized or stainless bolts, and screws rated for outdoor use (and for treated lumber, if you use it). Cedar is lighter and more pleasant to sit on; treated pine is cheaper and tougher. Our guide to the best wood for beginner projects compares them.
Cut list
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Seat slats | 5 | 2x4 | 45 in |
| B. Back slats | 3 | 2x4 | 51 in |
| C. Front legs | 2 | 2x4 | 16 in |
| D. Rear legs | 2 | 2x4 | 16 in |
| E. Back supports | 2 | 2x4 | 30 in, both ends 15 degrees, parallel |
| F. Seat rails | 2 | 2x4 | 19-1/2 in |
| G. Lower side rails | 2 | 2x4 | 19-1/2 in |
| H. Long stretcher | 1 | 2x4 | 45 in |
How the widths add up: the seat slats (45 in) sit on top of the seat rails, ending flush with the rails' outside faces, and the legs sit outside the rails, so the bench is 45 + 1-1/2 + 1-1/2 = 48 in across the legs. The back supports sit outside the rear legs, adding another 1-1/2 in per side, so the back slats are 48 + 3 = 51 in.
And the depth: five 3-1/2 in seat slats plus four 1/4 in gaps = 18-1/2 in.
Cutting layout
Each cut takes about 1/8 in. The first 15-degree cut on a board also wastes a small triangle, a little under 1 in on a 2x4.
- Boards 1, 2 and 3: two 45 in pieces each (90 + two cuts = 90-1/4 in of 96). That gives five seat slats (A) and the long stretcher (H).
- Board 4: two legs, then both back supports (16 + 16 + 1 in angle waste + 30 + 30 + five cuts = about 93-5/8 in of 96).
- Boards 5 and 6: one back slat and two rails each (51 + 19-1/2 + 19-1/2 + three cuts = 90-3/8 in).
- Board 7: one back slat and two legs (51 + 16 + 16 + three cuts = 83-3/8 in).
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw and speed square
- Drill/driver, countersink pilot bit, 3/8 in drill bit
- Wrench, tape measure, pencil, speed square, clamps
- A 4 in tall scrap block (a 2x4 offcut stood on edge is 3-1/2 in, so add a 1/2 in shim)
- Sander, safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut and sand the square parts
Square one end of each board and cut every part except the back supports. Label them. Sand the faces and round over every edge you will sit on or touch with 120 grit. Splinters in a garden bench are the first thing people notice.
Step 2: Cut the back supports at 15 degrees
Set your miter saw to 15 degrees. Cut one end of the board. Measure 30 in along one long edge from the tip of that cut, then make the second cut at 15 degrees in the same direction, so both ends are parallel. The support looks like a slightly leaning parallelogram, and both long edges measure 30 in. Use the first support as a pattern for the second.
With a speed square, pivot it from its corner until the 15 mark on the degree scale lines up with the board edge, and draw along the square.
Step 3: Build the two side frames
Lay a front leg (C) and a rear leg (D) flat on the floor, parallel and 12-1/2 in apart (inside edge to inside edge). Lay a seat rail (F) across them, flush with the tops of both legs, with its front end flush with the front edge of the front leg and its back end flush with the back edge of the rear leg. The rail is 19-1/2 in, so 3-1/2 + 12-1/2 + 3-1/2 = 19-1/2 in. Glue and drive two 2-1/2 in screws into each leg.
Now fasten a lower side rail (G) the same way, on the same face, with its bottom edge 3 in up from the bottom of the legs. Check the frame is square by measuring the diagonals. Build the second frame as a mirror image, so the rails end up on the inside of both.
Step 4: Mark and bolt the back supports
Turn a side frame over so the rails face down and the outside face of the legs is up. Hold a straightedge across the bottoms of both legs; that is the floor line. Set your 4 in block against it, then lay a back support (E) across the rear leg with its bottom cut butted flat against the block, so the cut is parallel to the floor line and 4 in from it. Pivot the support until its front edge crosses the top of the frame 17-5/8 in back from the front of the front leg. The bottom of the support should now sit about 1-5/8 in in front of the rear leg, and the top should lean back past it.
Clamp it. Drill two 3/8 in holes where the support overlaps the rear leg, keeping each hole at least 1 in from any edge. Put the upper hole about 14 in above the floor, where it also passes through the seat rail, and use a 5 in carriage bolt there. Put the lower hole about 8 in above the floor, through support and leg only, and use a 3-1/2 in bolt. Repeat on the other side, making sure the two frames match.
Why this matters: the 15-degree angle is set by the cut on the support's bottom end, but only if the bottom sits level at 4 in. If one support sits higher than the other, the back twists and the slats will not sit flat.
Step 5: Join the frames
Stand the frames up, rails facing each other. Lay the long stretcher (H) flat across the top edges of the two lower side rails, centered front to back, with its ends flush with the rails' outside faces. Drive two 3 in screws down through each end.
Step 6: Attach the seat slats
Set the first seat slat (A) so it overhangs the front legs by 1/2 in. Add the rest with 1/4 in gaps. The last slat should end 18 in back from the front of the legs, just where the back supports' front edges cross the seat. Drill pilot holes near the ends and drive two 3 in screws through each slat into each seat rail.
Step 7: Attach the back slats
Fit the top back slat (B) flush with the top ends of the supports and flush with their outer faces at each side. Drill pilot holes and drive two 3 in screws through the slat into the front edge of each support. Add the other two slats below with 1/2 in gaps. The bottom edge of the lowest slat is 11-1/2 in down from the top, measured along the support, which leaves a gap of about 4-1/2 in above the seat. That gap lets rain and leaves fall through.
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Step 8: Finish
Sand all slat edges once more and check the bench on flat ground. If it rocks, sand a little off the long leg. Apply an exterior finish to every face, including leg bottoms and the underside of the slats. Leave treated lumber to dry first if it is still damp.
Common mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Back slats twist or rock | One support set higher or at a different angle | Use the same 4 in block and 17-5/8 in mark on both sides |
| Back feels too upright | Supports cut square instead of 15 degrees | Recut the supports; the angle comes from the end cuts |
| Seat slats bounce | Seat lengthened without a middle support | Keep slats at 45 in or add a third side frame |
| Bolts loose after a summer | Wood shrank as it dried | Re-tighten every spring |
| Split slat ends | No pilot holes | Pilot every screw near an end |
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Longer 6 ft bench | Use 10 or 12 ft boards for the slats and stretcher, and add a third side frame in the middle so no slat spans more than about 45 in. |
| Lighter back | Use cedar 1x4s for the back slats; drop to 2 in screws. |
| More recline | Cut the supports at 20 degrees. The bench gets deeper, so test the position with clamps before drilling. |
| Storage underneath | See our outdoor storage bench plans for a deck box you can sit on. |
Want a backless version first? Our simple 2x4 outdoor bench takes an afternoon. For a more laid-back seat, see our Adirondack chair plans with footrest.
Maintenance
- Set the legs on pavers or gravel, not bare soil.
- Re-tighten the four bolts each spring.
- Recoat when water stops beading on the seat.
- Store it under cover in winter if you can, or at least tip it so water drains off the seat.
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FAQ
What angle should the back of an outdoor bench be?
Most comfortable benches have a back that leans about 10 to 20 degrees from vertical. This plan uses 15 degrees.
How many 2x4s do I need for a bench with a back?
Seven 8 ft 2x4s for this 51 in bench. The cutting layout shows which parts come from each board.
How tall should an outdoor bench seat be?
About 17 to 18 in, the same as a dining chair. This one is 17-1/2 in.
Can I build it with only a circular saw?
Yes. All cuts but four are square crosscuts, and the four 15-degree cuts are easy to mark with a speed square.
