These picnic table plans with material list build a classic 6 ft A-frame table: 71-1/2 inches long, 60 inches wide and 30 inches tall (182 x 152 x 76 cm), with attached bench seats at 17-1/2 inches. You need five 12 ft 2x6s, two 8 ft 2x6s, two 8 ft 2x4s, twelve carriage bolts and exterior screws. It seats six adults.
The only tricky part is the angled legs and braces, and we give you the exact angles and where to mark them. If you have never built anything this size, read how to start woodworking with no experience first. It covers the tools and habits this plan assumes. A picnic table is also a great winter project: build it in the garage now and it is finished, sealed and ready for spring.
At a glance
- Finished size
- 71-1/2 in long x 60 in wide x 30 in tall
- Seat height
- 17-1/2 in
- Skill
- Beginner to intermediate
- Time
- One weekend plus finish
- Lumber
- Seven 2x6s and two 2x4s
Beginner shortcut
Want a different style, like a round table, an octagon or a table that folds into a bench? The TedsWoodworking picnic table plans cover lots of variations, each with its own cut list, so you are not working out angles from scratch.
How this picnic table is built
The table has two end frames. Each frame is a horizontal 2x4 cleat under the top, two 2x6 legs that splay outward at 22-1/2 degrees, and a long 2x6 seat support that carries both bench seats. The frames are joined by five top boards, four seat boards, a middle cleat under the top and two diagonal 2x4 braces.
The braces matter more than they look. Without them, the table can rack (lean sideways along its length) when people climb in and out of the seats.
The top is 30 inches high, so the underside of the top boards is 28-1/2 inches up (30 minus 1-1/2). The seat boards sit on the seat supports, whose top edge is 16 inches up, giving a 17-1/2 in seat. That leaves 11 inches between the seat and the underside of the top for your legs.
Material list
Actual sizes: a 2x6 is 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 in and a 2x4 is 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.
- 5 x 2x6 boards, 12 ft (top, seats and two legs)
- 2 x 2x6 boards, 8 ft (seat supports and two legs)
- 2 x 2x4 boards, 8 ft (cleats and braces)
- 12 x 3/8 in carriage bolts, 3-1/2 in long, with 12 flat washers and 12 nuts (hot-dip galvanized or stainless)
- About 50 x 3 in exterior screws (coated deck screws)
- About 10 x 2-1/2 in exterior screws
- 8 x 3-1/2 in exterior screws
- 80 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Exterior stain, paint or a penetrating outdoor finish
For lumber, pressure-treated pine is the usual choice because it is easy to find and resists rot. Cedar is lighter and nicer to touch but softer and harder to find in 2x6 lengths. Our guide to the best wood for beginner projects compares them. Pick the straightest boards in the pile; a twisted 12 ft board will not pull flat with screws.
Cut list
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Top boards | 5 | 2x6 | 71-1/2 in, square ends |
| B. Seat boards | 4 | 2x6 | 71-1/2 in, square ends |
| C. Legs | 4 | 2x6 | 30-7/8 in, both ends 22-1/2 degrees, parallel |
| D. Seat supports | 2 | 2x6 | 60 in, square ends |
| E. Cleats (2 end, 1 middle) | 3 | 2x4 | 28-1/2 in, square ends |
| F. Braces | 2 | 2x4 | 22-7/8 in, both ends 35 degrees, parallel |
Why 71-1/2 in and not a full 72? Two 72 in pieces plus one 1/8 in saw cut is 144-1/8 in, which is longer than a 12 ft (144 in) board. Cutting at 71-1/2 in leaves room for the saw blade and for squaring up a rough factory end.
Cutting layout
Each saw cut removes about 1/8 in. Angled cuts also waste a small triangle at the start of a board: about 2-1/4 in on a 2x6 at 22-1/2 degrees, and about 2-1/2 in on a 2x4 at 35 degrees. That is included below.
- Boards 1 to 4 (12 ft 2x6): two 71-1/2 in pieces each (71-1/2 + 71-1/2 + two cuts = 143-1/4 in of 144). That gives all five top boards and three seat boards.
- Board 5 (12 ft 2x6): the last seat board plus two legs (71-1/2 + 2-1/4 waste + 30-7/8 + 30-7/8 + four cuts = about 136 in of 144).
- Boards 6 and 7 (8 ft 2x6): one seat support and one leg each (60 + 2-1/4 waste + 30-7/8 + three cuts = about 93-1/2 in of 96).
- Board 8 (8 ft 2x4): three cleats (28-1/2 x 3 = 85-1/2 + three cuts = about 85-7/8 in of 96).
- Board 9 (8 ft 2x4): two braces (2-1/2 waste + 22-7/8 + 22-7/8 + three cuts = about 48-5/8 in of 96).
The leftover from board 9 makes good test pieces for checking your saw's angle settings.
Tools
- Miter saw that tilts or swings to 35 degrees, or a circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver, a countersink pilot bit and a 3/8 in spade or auger bit
- Socket or adjustable wrench for the nuts
- Tape measure, pencil, speed square and a long straightedge
- Four or more clamps
- Sander or sanding block
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut the square-ended parts
Square one end of each board, then cut the top boards, seat boards, seat supports and cleats. Label every part with a pencil. If you are cutting pressure-treated lumber, work outdoors or with the garage door open, wear a dust mask, and wash your hands before eating. Never burn treated offcuts.
Step 2: Cut the legs at 22-1/2 degrees
Set your miter saw to 22-1/2 degrees (most saws have a detent there). Make the first cut near the end of the board. Then measure 30-7/8 in along one long edge from the tip of that cut and mark it. Make the second cut at the same 22-1/2 degrees, angled the same direction, so the two ends are parallel. The leg should look like a long, leaning parallelogram, not a trapezoid. Because the ends are parallel, both long edges measure 30-7/8 in.
With a circular saw, use the 22-1/2 mark on your speed square: pivot the square from its corner until the 22-1/2 mark lines up with the board edge, and draw your line along the square. Cut one leg, then use it as a pattern for the rest.
Step 3: Cut the braces at 35 degrees
The braces work the same way. Set the saw to 35 degrees, cut one end, measure 22-7/8 in along a long edge, and make a parallel cut. On a speed square, the 35 mark is on the degree scale between 30 and 40. Sand all cut ends and ease the sharp edges with 120 grit.
Step 4: Lay out and bolt the end frames
Work on a flat floor. Lay one end cleat (E) flat and mark its center. Place two legs (C) on top of the cleat so their top cuts line up exactly with the top edge of the cleat. Splay the legs outward so the outer top corner of each leg is 13-1/2 in from the center mark (27 in apart). The bottom outer corners should now be about 50-5/8 in apart. If they are, your angle is right.
Next, lay a seat support (D) across both legs, on top of them (the opposite face from the cleat, so the legs are sandwiched between the two). Center it side to side, so it sticks out the same amount past each leg. Measure square from the top edge of the cleat to the top edge of the seat support: it should be 12-1/2 in at both ends. Clamp everything and check the measurements again.
Drill 3/8 in holes and install carriage bolts: one through each leg and the cleat, and two through each leg and the seat support, spread apart. Put the bolt heads on the outside, washers and nuts on the inside. Add two 2-1/2 in screws through the cleat into each leg as well (the cleat and leg together are only 3 in thick, so a 3 in screw would poke through). Build the second frame the same way, as a mirror image.
Why this matters: if the two frames differ, the table will rock. Lay the second frame on top of the first to compare before bolting.
Step 5: Stand the frames and attach the top
This step needs a helper. Stand both frames up with the cleats facing outward, toward the table ends. Lay the five top boards across the cleats, with 1/4 in gaps between them so rain drains (two stacked paint stirrers make good spacers). The top is 28-1/2 in wide, the same as the cleats.
Slide the frames so the outside face of each cleat is 11-3/4 in in from the end of the top boards. Check that the top overhangs equally at both ends and that the frames are square to the boards. Drill countersunk pilot holes near the board ends and drive two 3 in screws through each top board into each cleat.
Step 6: Attach the seat boards
Each seat is two 2x6s with a 1/4 in gap, so 11-1/4 in deep. Line up the outer seat board flush with the ends of the seat supports, 30 in out from the center of the table. The ends of the seat boards line up with the ends of the top. The inner seat board clears the legs by only about 1/16 in, so before you fix the seats, check that the legs in each frame still splay at the full angle (bottom outer corners about 50-5/8 in apart) and set the inner boards in place dry to confirm they clear. Drive two 3 in screws through each seat board into each seat support.
Step 7: Fit the middle cleat and braces
Screw the middle cleat (E) under the top at the exact center of its length (35-3/4 in from each end), on edge like the end cleats, with two 3 in screws down through each top board.
Now place the braces. Each one runs from the inside face of a seat support up to the middle cleat, with the long cut edges facing up and down. Put one brace just left of the table's centerline and the other just right of it, so they do not collide at the middle cleat. The top corner of each brace should touch the underside of the top. The lower plumb end sits flat against the seat support, roughly in the middle of its height.
Drive two 3-1/2 in screws through the seat support into the end of each brace, and two through the middle cleat into the other end. The offset lets you drive these from the far side without hitting the other brace.
Step 8: Check, sand and finish
Set the table on flat ground and check for rocking. Re-tighten all twelve nuts. Sand the top and seat edges again, then apply your exterior finish to every surface, including the feet and the underside of the boards.
Outdoor dining
More tables, benches and patio sets
Once your picnic table is done, you might want matching benches, a kids' table or a planter for the end of the deck. TedsWoodworking lists 16,000+ plans, each with a cut list and diagrams, so the next one starts with the numbers already worked out.
- Picnic tables, benches and garden furniture
- Materials list and cut list with each plan
- Step-by-step diagrams for beginners
- $67 one-time payment, 60-day money-back guarantee
Not sure yet? Read our honest TedsWoodworking review first.
Finishing and maintenance
New pressure-treated lumber is often wet. If sprinkled water soaks in rather than beading, let the table dry a few weeks before finishing. Building over winter gives it that time.
- Use an exterior finish. A penetrating deck stain or exterior oil is easier to renew than paint, which peels on a horizontal surface.
- Keep the feet dry. Pavers or gravel under the feet stop them wicking water from soil.
- Check bolts every spring. Wood shrinks as it dries, so nuts that were tight in autumn can be loose by April.
- Recoat when water stops beading. For most tables that is every year or two.
Common mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Table rocks on flat ground | End frames not identical | Loosen the bolts on the long leg, shift slightly, re-tighten; or trim the long foot |
| Table sways lengthwise | Braces missing or loose | Re-screw the braces, add a third screw at each end |
| Legs not flat on the ground | Leg ends cut as a trapezoid, not parallel | Recut the legs so both ends angle the same direction |
| Top boards cupped or twisted | Bent boards or wet lumber dried unevenly | Pick straight boards; put the bark side down; add screws |
| Split board ends | No pilot holes near the ends | Always drill pilot holes within 2 in of an end |
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Umbrella hole | Drill a hole through the center top board, sized to your umbrella pole. Measure the pole first. |
| 8 ft table | Use 8 ft 2x6s for the top and seats, trimmed square. The braces get longer: clamp a 2x4 in place and mark it rather than using our 22-7/8 in. |
| Clipped corners | Cut the bottom corners of the cleats and the ends of the seat supports at 45 degrees, 1-1/2 in back. Purely for looks. |
| Separate benches | Easier to get in and out of. See our picnic table plans with separate benches. |
Want something smaller to warm up with? Our simple 2x4 outdoor bench uses the same screw-and-bolt joinery and finishes in an afternoon.
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FAQ
How much lumber do I need for a 6 ft picnic table?
This plan uses five 12 ft 2x6s, two 8 ft 2x6s and two 8 ft 2x4s. The cutting layout above shows which part comes from each board.
What angle are picnic table legs cut at?
In this plan, both ends of each leg are cut at 22-1/2 degrees, parallel to each other, and the braces are cut at 35 degrees. Other designs differ, so stick to one plan's numbers.
Can I build a picnic table with just a circular saw?
Yes. Use a speed square to mark and guide the angled cuts. Cut one leg, test it, and use it as a pattern for the rest.
How many people does a 6 ft picnic table seat?
Six adults sit comfortably, three per side. Children squeeze in more.
