These Adirondack chair plans with footrest build a low, reclined patio chair and a matching footrest using straight cuts only, no curves and no jigsaw. The chair is about 34 in wide, 37 in deep and 36 in tall (86 x 94 x 91 cm). It uses three angles you can mark with a speed square: 15 degrees on the seat rails, 25 degrees for the back and 45 degrees on two small arm braces.
This is a step up from a first bench, so if you are brand new, read how to start woodworking with no experience first and maybe build our simple 2x4 outdoor bench as a warm-up. Build it over winter and it will be ready for spring.
At a glance
- Chair size
- 34 in wide x 37 in deep x 36 in tall
- Footrest size
- 23 in wide x 20 in deep x 14 in tall
- Skill
- Confident beginner
- Time
- 1-2 days plus finish
- Lumber
- Four 2x4s, five 1x4s, one 1x6 (all 8 ft)
Beginner shortcut
Want a classic curved Adirondack later, or a matching side table? The TedsWoodworking outdoor plans include patio chairs, tables and loungers with cut lists, so the next piece can match this one.
How this straight-cut Adirondack chair works
A traditional Adirondack has curved legs and a fan-shaped back that need a jigsaw and templates. This version keeps what makes it comfortable, a low sloped seat, a reclined back and wide flat arms, using straight boards.
- Two sides. Each is a front leg, a back post and a sloped seat rail (the stringer) between them.
- A sloped seat. The stringers drop 15 degrees toward the back: about 15 in high at the front, 9-1/4 in at the back.
- A back panel built flat, then dropped in and leaned back 25 degrees.
- Flat arms on the legs and posts, 21-3/4 in off the ground.
The seat-to-back angle works out to about 100 degrees, which is the relaxed, lean-back feel people expect from this style of chair.
The three angles, and where to mark them
| Angle | Where | How to mark or set it |
|---|---|---|
| 15 degrees | Both ends of each stringer, cut parallel | Miter saw at 15 degrees: cut, slide the board 30 in, cut again without changing the setting. Or pivot a speed square to its 15 mark. |
| 25 degrees | Lean of the back panel (no cut) | Speed square or phone angle app on the slat faces: 25 degrees from vertical. |
| 45 degrees | Bottom end of each arm brace | Speed square 45 edge, or miter saw at 45. |
Why this matters: the two 15 degree cuts on a stringer must be parallel, not mirror images. If they point in opposite directions, the stringer will not sit flush against both the front leg and the back post, and the seat will twist. Cutting both ends with the same saw setting, without flipping the board, gets it right.
Materials list
- 4 x 2x4 boards, 8 ft (cedar or pressure-treated)
- 5 x 1x4 boards, 8 ft (cedar, or treated or decking boards that are 3/4 in thick)
- 1 x 1x6 board, 8 ft (for the arms)
- About 60 x 2-1/2 in exterior screws
- About 60 x 1-5/8 in exterior screws
- Exterior-rated wood glue
- 80 and 120 grit sandpaper
- Exterior stain, paint or penetrating oil finish
Cedar is light and rot resistant; pressure-treated pine is heavier and cheaper (use screws rated for it). See the best wood for beginner projects.
Cut list
Actual sizes: 2x4 = 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in, 1x4 = 3/4 x 3-1/2 in, 1x6 = 3/4 x 5-1/2 in.
| Part | Qty | Material | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| A. Stringers (seat rails) | 2 | 2x4 | 30 in, both ends 15 degrees, parallel |
| B. Front legs | 2 | 2x4 | 21 in |
| C. Back posts | 2 | 2x4 | 21 in |
| D. Upper back cleat | 1 | 2x4 | 23 in |
| E. Lower back cleat | 1 | 2x4 | 20 in |
| F. Arm braces | 2 | 2x4 | 8 in, one end 45 degrees |
| G. Seat slats | 6 | 1x4 | 23 in |
| H. Back slats | 5 | 1x4 | 36 in |
| I. Front apron | 1 | 1x4 | 26 in |
| J. Arms | 2 | 1x6 | 33 in |
| K. Footrest legs | 4 | 2x4 | 14 in |
| L. Footrest side rails | 2 | 2x4 | 20 in |
| M. Footrest end aprons | 2 | 2x4 | 17 in |
| N. Footrest slats | 5 | 1x4 | 20 in |
Cutting layout
Each cut removes about 1/8 in. A 15 degree cut on a 2x4 also wastes a small triangle, about 1 in along the board, each time you change between square and angled cuts.
- 2x4 #1: A, A, B, F (30 + 30 + 21 + 8 = 89 in, plus about 1/2 in of kerf and 2 in of angle waste = about 91-1/2 in)
- 2x4 #2: B, C, C, D (21 + 21 + 21 + 23 = 86 in, plus kerf = about 86-1/2 in)
- 2x4 #3: E, F, four K (20 + 8 + 14 x 4 = 84 in, plus kerf = about 84-3/4 in)
- 2x4 #4: L, L, M, M (20 + 20 + 17 + 17 = 74 in, plus kerf = about 74-1/2 in)
- 1x4 #1 and #2: H, H and one N each (36 + 36 + 20 = 92 in, plus kerf = about 92-3/8 in)
- 1x4 #3: H, G, G (36 + 23 + 23 = 82 in, plus kerf = about 82-3/8 in)
- 1x4 #4: G, G, I, N (23 + 23 + 26 + 20 = 92 in, plus kerf = about 92-1/2 in)
- 1x4 #5: G, G, N, N (23 + 23 + 20 + 20 = 86 in, plus kerf = about 86-1/2 in)
- 1x6: J, J (33 + 33 = 66 in, plus kerf = about 66-1/4 in)
Every board leaves room to square a factory end. Cut chair parts first so a mistake can borrow footrest stock.
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square
- Drill/driver with a countersink pilot bit
- Tape measure, pencil, speed square
- Four clamps (two long ones help)
- Sander or sanding block
- Safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask
Nervous about angled cuts? Practice on scrap first; our guide to measuring and marking wood accurately covers the speed square.
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Cut, label and sand
Cut and label every part. For each stringer, cut one end at 15 degrees, measure 30 in along a long edge and cut again at the same setting; it looks like a long, leaning parallelogram. Sand with 80 then 120 grit and soften every edge people will touch.
Step 2: Build the two side assemblies
Lay a front leg (B) and back post (C) flat and parallel, bottoms in a line. Lay a stringer (A) across them so its front end is flush with the front edge of the leg and its top front corner is 14-1/4 in above the bottom of the leg. Its rear end should be flush with the back edge of the post, with the top rear corner about 6-1/2 in above the bottom of the post. The outside of the leg to the outside of the post now measures 29 in.
Glue, clamp and drive four 2-1/2 in screws into the leg and three into the post. Build the second side as a mirror image so both stringers end up inside the chair.
Step 3: Join the sides with the apron and seat slats
Stand the sides up, stringers facing in and 20 in apart (the lower cleat E makes a spacer). Screw the front apron (I) across the legs, top edge level with the stringers' top front corners and ends flush with the outside of each leg.
Fit the first seat slat (G) flush with the apron's front face, ends flush with the outside of the stringers, between the legs. Pre-drill and drive two 1-5/8 in screws into each stringer. Add four more with 1/4 in gaps; leave the sixth for later.
Step 4: Build the back panel flat
Lay the five back slats (H) face down on a flat surface with 5/8 in gaps, so the panel is exactly 20 in wide. Square up the bottom ends. Place the lower back cleat (E) flat across them with its bottom edge 2 in from the slat bottoms and its ends flush with the outer slats. Place the upper cleat (D) flat across them with its bottom edge 16 in from the slat bottoms, centered, so it sticks out 1-1/2 in past each side. Glue, then drive two 1-5/8 in screws through each slat into each cleat.
Step 5: Set the back at 25 degrees
Lower the panel in from behind, slats facing forward: upper cleat between the back posts, lower cleat between the stringers. Set the upper cleat so its highest corner is about 3/8 in below the top of the posts (20-5/8 in off the floor), roughly centered front to back on the posts.
Swing the bottom forward until the slats lean back 25 degrees from vertical. Two checks confirm it: the center of the lower cleat lands about 7-5/8 in forward of the stringers' back ends and about 6 in off the floor, and the front face of the slats crosses the top edge of each stringer about 8-3/8 in from its back end. Clamp, pre-drill, and drive two 2-1/2 in screws through each post into the upper cleat and through each stringer into the lower cleat.
Step 6: Fit the last seat slat
Slide the sixth slat in behind the fifth. It is tight by design; if it will not fit, close the other gaps slightly or plane its back edge. Screw it down.
Step 7: Add the arms and braces
Set each arm (J) on top of a front leg and back post. The inner edge lines up with the inside face of the leg and post, the back end sits 1 in past the back of the post, and the front overhangs the leg by about 3 in. The arms sit 1-1/2 in clear of the back slats on each side. Check that both arms are level, then drive two 2-1/2 in screws down into each leg and each post.
Screw an arm brace (F) to the outside of each front leg, square end tight under the arm and 45 degree end down, then drive two screws down through the arm into it.
Outdoor seating
Ready for a curved classic or a matching set?
TedsWoodworking has 16,000+ plans, including Adirondack chairs, loungers, side tables and porch swings, each with a materials list, cut list and step-by-step diagrams.
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Build the matching footrest
The footrest is a separate, flat-topped stool 14 in tall, about an inch lower than the front of the chair seat.
- Side frames. Lay two footrest legs (K) flat and set a side rail (L) across them, rail ends flush with the outer edges of the legs. The top of the rail sits 3/4 in below the top of the legs, so the slats will finish flush. Glue and drive two 2-1/2 in screws into each leg. Make two.
- End aprons. Stand the frames up with the legs on the outside. Fit an end apron (M) between the rails at each end, tops flush with the rails, and screw through the rails into the apron ends. The frame is now 20 in across the outside of the rails and 23 in across the legs.
- Slats. Screw the five slats (N) across the rails, between the legs, with 5/8 in gaps (5 x 3-1/2 + 4 x 5/8 = 20 in).
Finishing and care outdoors
Finish every surface, including the leg and post bottoms, which soak up water. Penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain is easy to renew each spring; paint lasts longer but needs scraping when it fails. Keep the feet on pavers or a deck, and re-tighten screws that loosen as the wood dries and swells.
Common mistakes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Seat twists or rocks | Stringer ends cut as mirror images, or sides not mirror images | Recut with parallel ends; check both stringers face inward |
| Back too upright or too reclined | Panel set by eye | Recheck 25 degrees and the 8-3/8 in mark on the stringer before screwing |
| Last seat slat will not fit | Gaps too wide or back set slightly forward | Tighten gaps to 1/8 in or plane the last slat narrower |
| Arms slope | Leg or post cut slightly long | Check all four are 21 in before assembly; sand a high one |
| Split slat ends | No pilot holes | Pre-drill every screw within 1 in of an end |
Why this matters: the seat is low on purpose (about 15 in at the front, lower than a dining chair), which feels relaxed but is harder to get out of. For stiff knees or hips, use the raised-seat variation below.
Variations
| Version | How |
|---|---|
| Higher, easier-to-leave seat | Make the front legs, back posts and footrest legs 2 in longer and position the stringers 2 in higher; the arms rise 2 in too |
| Shaped back top | Cut the center slat square and clip the outer slats' top corners at 45 degrees for a stepped look |
| Wider chair | Add a sixth back slat (panel 24-1/8 in) and lengthen every cross part by the same 4-1/8 in |
For more garden builds, our outdoor bench plans with back use a similar fixed-angle back, and the picnic table plans round out a patio set.
Build the rest of the patio
When the chair is done, TedsWoodworking has plans for side tables, planters, loungers and porch swings, so your next weekend starts with a cut list instead of a blank page.
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FAQ
Can I build an Adirondack chair without a jigsaw?
Yes. This plan uses straight cuts only: square cuts, 15 degree cuts on the stringers and 45 degree cuts on the arm braces. A miter saw is easiest, but a circular saw guided by a speed square handles every cut.
How much lumber do I need for an Adirondack chair and footrest?
Four 8 ft 2x4s, five 8 ft 1x4s and one 8 ft 1x6 make both pieces; see the cutting layout above.
What is the best wood for an outdoor Adirondack chair?
Cedar is the classic, light and rot resistant; pressure-treated pine is a sturdy, cheaper option. Use exterior screws and finish either way.
How tall should an Adirondack footrest be?
Slightly lower than the front of the seat feels best. This chair's seat front is about 15 in high, so the footrest is 14 in.
